Sunday, January 27, 2008

Bariloche



We went white water rafting right on the Chillean border, it took us two hours to get there because 30 of the 100 kilometres of road was just gravel, it wasnt the most comfortable trip but they gave us lollies on the way though wich made up for it. Breakfast came complimentary with the package. Argentinians eat alot of pastries for breakfast.. well they only eat pastries, and cake, and flan things and they have their coffee pretty much straight, with about 2kgs of sugar. So after a few crossaunts and coffee we had enough energy to face the RAPIDS OF DOOM. I wish i had my camera on me so you guys could see how rediculous we all looked in the wetsuits, helmet and puffy jacket.


Our instructor was absolutely hallarious, he gave us a quick safety overview and then showed us the ideal ways to splash the other boats with your paddles, ideally going for the eyes. The water from the river flowed from glaciers up the mountains, so it was so clear you could see the bottom, and you could even drink it as you swam around. As we began to approach the first rapid he explained that he would basically be shouting forward, backwards and stop commands, and if he shouts it louder, we need to do it faster and if he stops, he´s probably falling off the boat. The first rapid was only small, but one of the 8 on board fell out and steve nearly did, partially because i was on top of him... When we finished he showed us the victory cheer, which was kind of like the hands in the midde of the circle then lift them up with a ´ÝEAAAH!, and then we all had to bang heads in the middle. our cheer was waaay better than the other boats..


We floated down river for about 2 and a half hours, with rapids every 15 to 20 minutes and we could just sit back and soak in the awesome mountain views and talk to the others on board between crazy times. When we finished (about 5m into the chillean border!), it was a half hour ride back to camp but we got a PARILLA when we got back so all was forgiven.


Back at the hostel we organised to meet up with Jasper and Judith (yasper and yudith!!) for australia day, so we grabbed a litre of vodka, 6 litres of beer, a kilo and a half of tbone steak and hit the parrilla hardcore. This would be our final encounter with jasper so we had to finish it off in style. Herbert the austrian also joined us, claiming that austrian was so similar to australian that he should be able to celebrate also. After eating a considerable amount we headed to a disco with some guys from the hostel and randomly ran into some girls from the rafting and disco-tecked the night away. We even got an awesome hamburger with salsa from a guy on the street on the way home...


Tomorrow we leave for Osorno for some trekking and volcanoes!

Friday, January 25, 2008

Bariloche

Bariloche
We arrived at Bariloche around lunchtime today after super dooper long bus trip, lucky we had a tripancho (yes.. thats THREE HOTDOGS IN ONE! i have photographic proof) before we left.

We had planned to arrive yesterday but the busses where sold out, and because we didnt reserve a room at the hostel we had to find another one for a night. All went well though, and the people at the original hostel where great at helping us find another place.

Bariloche is surrounded by mountains and sits on a pretty lake, we´re hoping to do some rafting or something a bit crazy in the days to come.

shweya!

Wednesday, January 23, 2008

Penguins and Llamas!



Yesterday we woke up at 7 and got a on a tour bus at 8. We drove around Pt. Madryn for atleast an hour picking up other tourists who wanted to go on the tour and then proceeded to drive the two hours to the dolphin boat ride (in Rawson maybe.. i´ll find out). I pretty much slept the whole way, and as we approached the harbour the guide described it as ´picturesque´ or something along those lines, and because the whole place was covered in fog we didnt know what to expect anyway. On arrival, we where greeted to what looked like an abandonned industrial area, with 44galon drums everywhere, no vegitation and ships sitting on the dry banks of the river. So when the boat arrived i was pretty supprised when we saw atleast 10 seals/sea lions frolicking around on the banks, not even 5 minutes from where we left off.

When we got out to sea (to see what we could see, see, see) there was dolphins galore, even mummies and babies swimming together! They were black and white which was a bit wierd, but made them easier to see, despite this they where so fast it was nearly impossible to take a photo of them (i had to steal Jaspers).

Back at shore, we jumped on the bus again and headed for the Punta Tombu penguin colony! The biggest conglomeration of penguins outside of Antarctica! The bus took just over an hour and a majority of the drive was on a crazy, winding gravel road.

We stepped off the bus, walked about 10m and BAM, BAM, BAMMITY BAM, penguins fricken everywhere! We couldnt even see the water yet, and it was pretty much desert, and it was about 30 degrees, and there was a penguin under every single bush, it was crazy. But the crazyness had only just begun, on the hill before us A PACK OF WILD LLAMAS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! as we wept with excitement, we realised we where here for the penguins and continued up the path towards the shore. These penguins where everywhere and where not at all scared of humans, some even walking infront of us on the path.

After the penguins we took another 2 hr bus ride to Trelew to visit some fossils at the fossil museum, followed by super panchos. It was on this journey that i saw A FREAKIN ARMADILLOW on the side of the road!

Just to put that into context, today we saw: the biggest colony of penguins outside of Antarctica, llamas, seals, dolphins, sea lions, dinosaurs, super panchos and armadillows!!!!!!!!!

...too bad we spent 8 hours on a bus.

Monday, January 21, 2008

Peurto Mardryn


Hola!

So we went to our dance lessons, it was really fun. It started off individually just following the moves the instructor was doing at the front of the class, and then the crap people and the good people where seperated and we grabbed a partner and learned how to tango. I started with Steve but then paired up with a local Buenos-Aireaan lady who was equally as bad as me, but atleast we had a good laugh. After a while we were told to sit down and the instructors put on a show, they where awesome, but me and steve deffinately looked sexier together. By the end of the night we consumed far too much alcohol but had a great time talking and dancing like retards.


The next day we visited the parilla place three doors down from our hostel for lunch AND dinner, so in total we probably ate a kilo of steak. This was the third day we visited this place, but for 13 pesos (THATS $4.30 AUSTRALIAN) is was killer value: all you can eat steak, roast, ribs, salad, whole grilled fish, fruit salad, bananas with honey, herb-a-fied oven roasted potatoes, chicken, spring rolls, ICE CREAM and much much more... no wonder everyone loves Buenos Aires.


After two epic feeds we where pretty knackered, but it was our last day in Buenos Aires so when Wagner the Brazillian suggested we hit a nightclub we couldnt refuse. We ended up going to a place called La France wich was basically a big hall with smoke machines and lazer shows but had a zillion people in it. It was 30 pesos entry but beers where aud$1 and cocktails aud$2, no wonder i slept nearly the entire 20 hour bus ride south to Peurto Madryn.


We arrived here at 7 thismorning and have already been for a walk around the beach and some parts of town. Its not a very big town but has alot of sea lions and penguins to have a look at. Its overcast and a bit rainy but hopefully that should clear up before we head bush and set up tent in a few days time.

Friday, January 18, 2008

La Boca

La Boca, Buenos Aires
Today we went to a suburb in Buenos Aires called La Boca, known for its colourful streets, tango clubs and football team. First we went to the stadium, wich was quite small compared to AFL standards, but they probably pack it choc-a-block, and judging by the +9ft, barbed wire fences that not only seperate the spectators from the field and from each other, it would be absolutely crazy during a match. We then headed towards the center where all the colourful buildings are, had a look at the markets and watched a tango show while we got a coffee. On the way home we got photos with a tango dancer who was a little past her prime, and probably a bit more than just a dancer (SEE PHOTOS!)...
Tonight we have tango lessons wich should be fun...

Thursday, January 17, 2008

olah!

Nothing much to really report in on.

We´ve decided to stay in buenos aires until sunday and then head south to Patagonia/the lakes district. We visited the zoo, i saw a condor (the biggest bird in the western hemisphere!) and umm we walked through a room full of macaws (the freaking huge parrot), stacks of llamas, polar bears and a loco monkey who fell off the top of his house. From the zoo we took a walk to a few museums and the cemetery where Evita is buried. It was really eerie because people had broken into some of the tombs and coffins where falling out of the rooms.

i shall put the photos up later today.

Sunday, January 13, 2008

Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires is the capital city of Argentina, and is known as the ´Paris of the south´, partially because of its arty farty culture, and heavily european influenced architecture. Its actually a really pretty and clean city, the people are really friendly and the food is rediculously good and cheap, i mean like practically giving it away... 3 FREAKIN HUGE STEAKS, REAL chips (gwennie style) , salad, 2 x i litre ´grande´beers for 80 pesos in total (about $30 au or ten dollars each).

We went for a walk to the government building (the evita dont cry for me argentina balcony) and then to some awesome street markets full of antique jewellry, cameras and paintings, then generally soaked up the atmosphere of town. The chick at the hostel counter was rude and tempermental and it was lucky we only had one night here beacause all of the rooms backed on to a communal dining\reception\bar\tv area that at night meant you got pretty much no sleep (except for macca who managed to sleep through the take off and landing of the plane to iguacu).

We´re at a different hostel tonight, and its got free and working computers and the staff seem alot more friendly. they even have a ping pong table!

oh and the main road through town here is 18 lanes wide (the photo)... crazy eh..

mwa mwa´s

-braddles

Bye bye posadas

We spent friday just strolling around Posadas, this was when we realised the shops here open from 8-12 then 4-8, so they get a four hour lunch break! Wich was crap for us because we wanted to buy some clothes and fruit, and would explain why the pub we where at the other night only started to fill up at two oclock. When the time arrived for us to head to the bus stop, we said bye to Chris and caught a taxi well before the 6.30 departure time, i think we got there at 5.30.

we waited.. and waited.. and waited.. and waited..

and then when a bus to Buenos Aires pulled up at 7 we were like Yaay! however, we were quickly informed that we MISSED THE BUSS! (oh noes!!) and were taken to the office of the company that we booked at, and they frantically tried to organise another ticket for us. We had to pay a fee and the difference between ticket prices but were informed that we would be able to leave tonight, but one of the workers would have to drive us out of town to meet the bus.

So we hopped in his nice little Voltswagon (which everyone seems to drive here) and he DROVE US LIKE A FREAKEN MANIAC about 20 minutes out of town. At one stage we where overtaking a car, which was being overtaken, on double white lines around a corner, with not seatbelts! AHHH! (i have footage of the crazy south american drivers to come). The best part of all of it, was the fact that he had ace of base blaring the whole time (i saw the sign... it opened up my eyes.. la la laaah). When we arrived at the destination (alive thank god), and the bus turned up, they threw deeves stuff onto the bus and he got on. then they took off... without us! Turns out we had seperate busses (ohh nooo!). It all worked out in the long run, and we even got 2 meals on the bus and the seats basically turned into beds. Despite the two babies and chorus of snoring old people we actually got a fairly good sleep before we arrived in Buenos Aires.

Friday, January 11, 2008

Posadas

Posadas, Argentina

Hi guys,

We left Iguacu a few days ago and caught a 5 hour bus to a town called Posadas in Argentina. As we got off the bus we ran into an english guy named chris who we met at Hostel Bambu and have been hanging around him since we arrived (he can speak spanish, BONUS!). This place kind of feels like Subiaco or South Perth, with lots of trendy clothes stores etc but has cool little fruit shops everywhere.. it Deffinatley feels more safe than anywhere else we have been, with joggers and kids on bikes riding around until extremely late. We have been spending our nights down by the river wich seperates Paraguay and Argentina, chilling out at bars and cafe´s.



We went to some old Jesuit Reduction (see here for more info!) just out of town, which are World heritage listed. We didnt even know what a jesuit was until we watched the video when we got there! Basically in about 1700 some people ( a mix of local Guarni people and European settlers) set up a kind of cult which balanced the lifestyle and traditions of the locals but with a big european influence. It was all about equality, balance, respecting nature and following the word of god. They set up something like 50 towns around this area, the one we visited had a population of about 4 thousand people and their way of living was really efficient and successful. This pissed off the government at the time and they basically told the Jesuit people to leave, and then they made them leave by attacking them! All that is left of any signs of the people now are the few ruins that lay around Argentina and Brazil.

We leave for Buenos Aries at 6.30 tonight and should arrive about 6 tomorrow morning. The busses here are awesome, theyre more spacious and luxurious than most planes ive been on, and theyre cheap too. The bus from Iguacu to here only cost $10! and we even got to watch Die Hard 2 on the way.

Tuesday, January 8, 2008

Itaipu Dam

Today we had a tour of the Itaipu dam, wich generates the most powerof any hydroelectric dam in the world and is one of the 'modern wonders of the world'. It wasnt really tall like the hoover dam, but it stretches for 7235 m and holds back a huge reservior (1350 square kilometres) that powers the huge turbines. Its a bit sad really, because all in that space used to be towns and farms, but now its just a shitload of water.

Because the dam is on the brazillian and paraguaynian border, its actually in a neutral zone where no one actually owns it, and both contries contribute and recieve 50% from it. for example the amount of workers is the same between the two contries, they have the same amount of turbines and theres even a line drawn down the middle of the control room to show who's from brazil and who's from paraguay.

We're heading to a town called Pasada tomorrow, it's about 5 hours south of here, this should break up the 15 hour bus ride to Buenos Areis and has some cool old ruins that we're going to check out. We have knocked up a kind of itinerary with loose dates on it wich i'll post sometime tomorrow.

loves to all!
brad and the boys

Monday, January 7, 2008

Teh Foz

Foz De iguaçu

The hostel we're at is really cool, its basically a huge house with little or no sign of people actually 'working' here. Everything works on an honesty system, you just grab beers/shots from the bar and write them down in a book and the internet works in the same way. The guys are really helpful, they hooked us up with a tour of the Brazillian side of the falls for $r150 (about $100au) , this got us a half hour bus trip there and back, we jumped the massive entry line to the park, got a super, upclose look at the falls, went on a 9 km bike ride through some insane rainforest, a boat ride up the iguazu river, some kyaking and even a little lunchbox!

Our boat broke down at one stage about 2kms upstream from the BIGGEST WATERFALLS ON THE PLANET, we were heading towards them quite fast which got me a big nervous, but the tother guys kept thier cool.

In total there's 270 falls that span the entire front of the river, they just keep going on and on. There was these little animals that kind of look like bandicoots everywhere, picking up any food that anyone dropped, one even drinknng up an icecream. When we reached Devil's Throat and walked out over the platform leading to the center of the U shaped fall, the noise and spray coming off the falls was overwhelming. Looking up at the wall of water pounding down infront of us was one of the most incredible things ive ever seen.

When we arrived home from our little boat breaking down session we headed down to a place called 'Tropicana', which for 12 reis gives you an all you can eat meat buffet! at the front of the eating area a huge, open wood fired barbecuce cooked masses of meats on metal poles, to which the cooks would then walk around and offer the patrons and cut them straight onto your plate, it was like a never ending supply of meaty goodness! One of the beef ones was so tender it tasted like it had been in the oven on low all day, freakin awesome.

The falls form the border of three different countries: brazil, argentina and paraguay, i think we're heading off to the argentinian side today!

Saturday, January 5, 2008

Foz De Iguacu

Hi guys,
THe hostel took us to a crazy street party in Lapa last night, it was quite fun, macca got his camera stolen however (sneaky brazillians). We left for Foz De Iguacu (its pronounces iguazu) at 6 thismorning and have just been chilling out at the backpackers for a majority of the day. I've managed to put the photos from london up on flickr www.flickr.com/photos/bradfarleigh if you want to check them out! ill put the ones from rio and maybe some of the falls up tomorrow.

love to all

-brad

Friday, January 4, 2008

Copacobana: The home of the g-string



So today we decided to have a chill out day. We slapped on the sunscreen and headed down the beach. It's amazing how much attention you get when everyone elses skin colour is 400 shades darker, its wierd though because lots of people have approached us and said how beautiful the pale skin is...

This beach is perfect. Thats all i can say. Oh and the sand is hot, and children should NOT BE WEARING GSTRING BIKINIS! All the girls here look about 25, and even the older ones who arent in thier prime walk around half naked and get as much sun on thier bodies as they can. Maybe they arent as concerned with body image as us australians, but when 80% of the population is super attractive i dont think they have anything to worry about.

First night at the hostel


We're staying at a place called Mellow Yellow, which is about one block from Copacabana beach. The staff here a really friendly and nearly everyone speaks english. After getting our stuff together and cruizing around town for a while, we decided to retire to the bar for our free drink and continue the happy hour (well it was two hours) festivities. We decided to get Capirinahs (see above), basically a scotch glass half filled with some crazy vodka/tequila tasting cashew based white spirit, a load of ice, and about ten kilos of lime, and for 2reias (about 1.20 australian)... this was to be a dangerous night.

We started talking to this indian guy who sounded like he had been on holiday for his whole life but had been studing at uni's around the world at the same time. The irish barman started to get worried when we had been at the bar for 45 minutes and knocked back 7 each. The bar started to fill up and a guy with an acoustic guitar starting playing some local music. It was then macca decided he wanted to play a paul kelly song.. BAD IDEA *video upload pending*

A few hours passed, deeve went missing (he doesnt even know where he went...) and me and luke decided to go find a kebab. We ended up at a copabana and went upto a little bar-shack type thing that was built on the footpath and we asked for a kebab, so he opens an eski and pulls out a huge fish and offers to cook it for us(AT ONE IN THE MORNING!). DEAL! We then began talking to a local 17 year old who had very good english and we talked about his home and his family and the differences in culture between his and our contries. After about an hour we decided it was probably wasnt the safest place to be and headed home for some well earned sleep.

Friendly brazillian prostitutes

So we're sitting at one of the many temporary bars on the footpath that runs along copacabana and a young brazillian girl who doesn't speak a word of english decides she wants to sit down with us and have a hamburger, this was all cool (the people here are really friendly), but the conversation wings towards 'sexo'.. which we guessed as meaning sex... We decline, she asks if we are gay, we say no, she shrugs her shoulders and continues to eat her hamburger and talk about her 5 year old kid. We then pull out the good old translation book thingo and she starts trying to say random english words, pointing out that many of the words are very similar to her language. After about an hour of this, we decide to get another round of capirinahs and she drinks one with us. All she really needed was some money, and we spent all ours on drinks so when we got up and left we couldnt even give her some shrapnel. Poor girl. I hope we run into her again just so i can pay her for the hours of entertainment she provided..

Pão de Açúcar

Pão de Açúcar
The Pão de Açúcar or sugar loaf was another one of the 'must see' things on our list for rio. Basically its just a big rock, but it has a bar at the top and on a 37 degree day, sitting on a rock 400 meters above the most beautiful beach in the world was fricken awesome. We ran into some other aussies who where deckhands on a private yacht that goes around south america, they probably had the best jobs in the world.

Cristo Redentor

Cristo Redentor

When we got off the bus from centro a taxi driver quickly sold us his sales pitch and we began hooning up the mountain towards the adjacent peak to the statue. Off in the distance you could see the favelas sprawled up the hills and the haze over the city, we were getting so high infact that my ears began to pop and it was apparent we were actually driving through patches of cloud. When we reached the peak we were greeted by armed guards and then trekked up the hill for some photos. About 10km's into the distance all we could see of jesus was his feet, and the rest of the mountain was cloud, it was spectacular none-the less.

The driver then took us up to the main mountain, where the statue stands. It was amazing to look up at this huge statue that seemed to be balancing on the summit, overlooking the city. Standing at his feet and looking up sent shivers down my spine. As with many of the other places we have been around town, photos just dont show what it's actually like to be there. It was absolutely incredible.



New Years continued

Well me and macca where the only people on copacobana not wearing white, we've been told it's a custom here so the fact that we where the only white people on the beach AND the fact we were'nt wearing white probably where the reasons whe got so much attention from the locals. from randoms shouting out 'HEY GRINGO' to people wanting photos of us for no reason at all it was actually pretty funny. On a beach with something like 2 million people (so google told me) it was actually not that hard for us to get back to the hotel at three in the morning. It was freaking scary none the less but we made it home alive.

IN BLOGS TO COME---
-christo de redemptor (big statue)
-the sugar loaf (big rock)
-two hour conversations with a lovely prostitute named luciana who couldnt speak a word of english
-macca playing a drunken paul kelly song on guitar at the hostel
-waaay to many capirinahs

plus much much more!

New years

After a little afternoon kip, we decided to head down to copacobana for the new years celebrations. Deeve was sick so decided to stay back so it was upto me and macca to work out how to use the bus service and head the 10km's to the beach. The public transport here is supprisingly good, busses probably come every 5-10 minutes, displaying the fare on the front and what streets it~s heading down. Each bus has a driver and a cashier type person who processes the fares, this means the bus is pretty much always moving, but also means that if you have to wait in line to pay for your trip, you spend half your time falling over and trying not to fall out the door as the bus cuts four lanes to pick up another passenger.

When we got to the beach the atmosphere was incredible. People where singing and dancing everywhere, there where people selling huge plates of kebabs and chicken, balancing the dishes on thier heads. There was a beer stall every 5 meters selling cans for 2.50real (about 1.80 australian) and nearly everyone was shirt-less (except ofr us gringo's).

As the clock hit 12 the sky filled with the most fireworks i~ve ever seen in my life. it was amazing. There was about 6 cruize liners in the bay wich added to the overall spectacle and people sung and cheered as the half hour of fireworks continued

i have more to say but people need to use the computer...
to be continued!!

1/1/07 Rio first impressions

So we landed in rio yesterday morning, it's about 35 degrees and super humid. We caught a bus from the airport to our hotel wich was a great opportunity to see the different aspects of the city, from the awesome mountains that surround it to the shanty towns and homeless that seem to be everywhere. It~s amazing how run down this place is, its kind of like fremantle back alleys making up an entire city. The sidewalks are a mozaic of broken concrete and all the buildings and fences have this gangster computergame feel about them, covered in graffiti and dirt.

It turns out that our hotel is in an area named 'centro' which is the business district during the day, but the streets turn into homeless-ville at night, with people making overnight houses out of cardboard boxes and old chipboard. The homeless are friendly though, many selling beer and lollies to make some money.

We checked into the hotel and then me and luke went exploring. We wandered to a huge street market where we scored an awesome turkish bread sandwich, but it was here we realised that nearly no one speaks english and we would probably have to learn some pretty quickly if we didnt want to starve to death.